Jump to content
  • Welcome, Guest!

    Welcome to Backcountry 4x4's online community! Consider creating a free account to take part in our discussions, share photos / videos, and start "web wheeling" with us!

What did you do to your rig today?


autumnwalker

Recommended Posts

And today, I starting replacing my interior lights with LEDs that I got on eBay. I bought the 10 pack for my WK, I think they were around $15 or $20US. The first pic is the map lights overhead, left bulb is standard and a new LED in the right side. Then the interior shot from outside, looking in through the window, earlier tonight.

I like the idea of LED's in the interior, but prefer to go with red lighting. At night, I can turn the light on to find something, but not temporarily blind/reduce my vision when it's dark outside. I will admit that it does suck when loading/unloading the kids & stuff into the X in the driveway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 4.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

I bought a tire deflator kit off of eBay today. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/231178176512?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Figured I'd give them a shot and see how well they work. Hopefully they're ok, as it'll be nice to just be able to screw the four of these on and air down all four tires at the same time and to the same pressure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Received my new driveshaft today. Ordered through 4WheelParts in F'ton. Thought I wanted a Tom Woods or some other big brand name that advertises in all of the magazines. They recommended a shop in Bathurst, NB. Bathurst is 4-wheelin' country and (was) mining country. I've always had good luck with whatever they recommend, so I went for it.

I am EFFING amazed! There is supposed to be 3" of spline engagement, and there's not a bit of slop. And those are 1350 U-joints, because I've been losing U-joint caps with internal c-clips. And the flange is even clearanced for a bit more articulation.

post-247-0-40469900-1395189548_thumb.jpg

post-247-0-52752000-1395189554_thumb.jpg

Front driveshaft will not be a weak point or my Dana 60. Ooops, that means t-case? Warn premium hubs? I don't drive 'er that hard. ;-)

This thing is BUILT.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought a tire deflator kit off of eBay today. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/231178176512?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Figured I'd give them a shot and see how well they work. Hopefully they're ok, as it'll be nice to just be able to screw the four of these on and air down all four tires at the same time and to the same pressure.

Take note, some of the no-name brands off of eBay will work but they are really slow at letting the air out. I bought a set last year (similar to yours) and they took over 15 mins to air down my tires from 14psi to about 8psi. They all look the same. Mine where cheap so I guess I can't expect much.

These were the ones.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADJUSTABLE-TIRE-DEFLATOR-KIT-6-30psi-SET-4-DEFLATORS-LEATHER-POUCH-/141122036815?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20db87644f

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take note, some of the no-name brands off of eBay will work but they are really slow at letting the air out. I bought a set last year (similar to yours) and they took over 15 mins to air down my tires from 14psi to about 8psi. They all look the same. Mine where cheap so I guess I can't expect much.

These were the ones.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADJUSTABLE-TIRE-DEFLATOR-KIT-6-30psi-SET-4-DEFLATORS-LEATHER-POUCH-/141122036815?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20db87644f

15 mins, wow, hopefully these will be quicker than that!! Even if they are slow though, I guess it'll still be better than doing one tire at a time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a gauge that I use now, but it's kind of a pain in the ***. I'll take the 15min (hopefully mine will be quicker) when it's -15 out, and I can sit in my truck while it airs itself down and not have numb hands :D

Even if it does take that long, we usually stand around at least that long talking while everyone airs down and gets ready to enter the trail. Hands free airdown will be nice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a gauge that I use now, but it's kind of a pain in the ***. I'll take the 15min (hopefully mine will be quicker) when it's -15 out, and I can sit in my truck while it airs itself down and not have numb hands :D

Even if it does take that long, we usually stand around at least that long talking while everyone airs down and gets ready to enter the trail. Hands free airdown will be nice.

Yup, or you could easily put the deflators on when you leave the main road (off the highway) and let them air down as you approach the trailhead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This type of deflator is not intended to be left on the valve stem, but some are. These work really well when your tires have normal street pressure (30ish psi). The ones I have take the pressure down fairly quickly to about 12 psi, it's definaitely a lot faster and more convenient than doing one tire at a time and constantly checking with a gauge. And if you are going to use a gauge, use a reliable one. This article from FourWheeler does a comparison (but you have to subscribe to get past page 1).

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/wheels-tires/129-1212-the-great-tire-deflator-shootout/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have these ones, had them added when I bought the winch.

http://titanwinches.com/index.php/products/air-compressors-accessories/tire-deflators.html

38 - 15 PSI in about 3-5 minutes (never really timed it). I put them on in the waiting area as long as we're not travelling a great distance to trail head. I have put them on at the start of a trail before and started to drive, but I stop about 5 minutes in to take them off.

A tip to set them: It's easy to calibrate 3 of them after you get the first one set correctly. Once you have the first set where you want it, remove it and then install #2. Slowly turn the cap until you just start to hear air & turn it back until it stops & then lock it in place. Repeat for the remaining 2 and you're good to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What did a drive shaft cost to get built if you don't mind me asking... I'll be shopping for a rear shaft here right away...

It was $5xx + taxes. Custom built from scratch. For comparison LMC shows $319 for a factory style. Then consider exchange, duty and shipping. And this is a way better shaft than factory. Basically it has external U-Joint clips that are full circle and don't come off (you could build it 1310, 1330 or 1350 like I did) and it is the proper length, now that I have a lift. I also set it side by side with my original one (not the one that's in the truck at the moment), and it has considerable more flex at the Double Cardan Joint. I also bought a 1350 pinion yoke to replace the teeny 1310 yoke that was on the Dana 60. That was about $125 including the U-Bolt style bolt to attach the U-joint. Not cheap all-in-all, but I like building better than stock. Consider stock she was built for 28" tall tires, and occasional 4x4 on snowy or muddy roads, and not the pounding she sometimes sees now!

I may put a SYE on it as well, the only good one I have found is Tom Woods and they re-work your Transfer Case rear output shaft and send you a new driveshaft as well. Before I do that I would change my rear pinion yoke to 1350 as well.

When getting a driveshaft made you have to give them ALL measurements, they won't take your word for anything and there can be such variations from the factory anyway and so many mods to a 30 year old truck anyway. Check on Tom Woods or Denny's Drive shaft and those are the measurements they want, right down to the U-Joint cap size.

If your rear driveshaft is factory style, I suspect it can be re-built locally for much less. But I needed a new yoke at the pinion end, new splines, new length, and proper Spicer style U-Joints, and custom was the only way to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So a few days ago I got around to putting the new suspension in the runner, my old struts springs and shocks were ten years old at 225,xxx km and needed replacement badly! This is the suspension I have had sitting around here for a little while: http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/3-Lift-W-Bilstein-5100-Height-Adj-Coilovers-FJ4Runner_p_365.html

it looked all of decent quality. I had been running p265/70r16 nokian full winter studded tires and it was starting to get too warm on some days to be running a soft compound winter tire, so a few weeks back I ordered in a set of five LT 265/75r16 load C Yokohama geolandar m/t+, I did a lot of searching reviews and lots of comparing, I decided on the yokohama due to a couple reasons the main reason was the fact that it is a very well behaved mud terrain and the fact that it came in a load range C. I also didn't want to go too big on the tire also because at the end of the day its still a daily driver and I didn't want to have to regear or lose any flex. edit it fits in stock spare location!

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+M%2FT+Plus

So now that it is all on I am very happy! I netted just under 3 and a half inches lift in the front and a full 3 inches in the rear, a lot more than I expected but my old springs were very worn. Ride is great feels a lot better! also it is handling the extra rear weight very well.

Tires are great! super quiet on the highway (for a mt) running them at 40psi they look wicked haven't got them in the mud yet cause there is still lots of snow here. they fit the fenders great when they are flexed out!

Sorry for no pix guys I recently broke my iphone :( have to just come out for a coffee night when I get back from alberta.

Sam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

washed the X

modded my 2 way speaker external mic - the audio was no where near as good on the speaker mic, so I made a mod to the connector so audio still comes out of the radio....nice and loud.

also the rally I had no PTT on the radio installed in the truck - i figured it out to be an issue with the batter elimination which is supposed to have a voltage regulator to take battery volts down to 7.7v - it's pumping out 14v. So either the regulator is blown,...doubtful as a blown regulator would product no output....OR I got ripped off and sold an empty case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...