Eastcoastcam Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 very true, especially through the last part I've not checked my rad yet...but I had no issues on the way home.... that I noticed ...That was BEFORE the icy section :smiley-music037: ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 yes, the X was full after its first mouthful and did eat any more ice after that :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72LandRover88 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 From this... 2013-12-16 10.24.26.jpg to this... 2013-12-17 20.31.36.jpg Happy Jeep on the road again :) ! I have experienced that. I "fixed" mine with my winch routed through an appropriately placed snatch block! I have been considering a set of solid steel steering rods, readily available, $200 CAD from Vermont or $115 CAD form the UK, ironically shipping rates are very similar... They would be considerably stronger than the stock hollow tubes ones with jam nuts instead of clamps... The only reason I haven't yet is because the hollow ones are the weak point and a reseanably easy fix on the trail. If I upgrade to the solid steel rods, where is my weakpoint? And will it be as easily repaired in the woods? http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=RNA5612&type=0&eq=&desc=STEERING-ROD-SET-HEAVY-DUTY-SER.II-III&key=it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 I have experienced that. I "fixed" mine with my winch routed through an appropriately placed snatch block! I have been considering a set of solid steel steering rods, readily available, $200 CAD from Vermont or $115 CAD form the UK, ironically shipping rates are very similar... They would be considerably stronger than the stock hollow tubes ones with jam nuts instead of clamps... The only reason I haven't yet is because the hollow ones are the weak point and a reseanably easy fix on the trail. If I upgrade to the solid steel rods, where is my weakpoint? And will it be as easily repaired in the woods? http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=RNA5612&type=0&eq=&desc=STEERING-ROD-SET-HEAVY-DUTY-SER.II-III&key=it Bent rie-rods are a big problem. Been there many times myself. Including 2008 Poker Run. I upgraded to an alloy rod (DOM? 4130?) which helps but they still bend under enough force and when they do they don't straighten as easily as the softer steel! And there are blogs that hollow tubes are actually stonger than solid steel. For the old Chevs, with the steering box and attached steering knuckle on the same side, under extreme articulation you don't have much steering left. And so it would be hard for me to do the washout! So the solution is cross-over steering to alliviate the problen under articulation and High-Steer placing the tie-rod on top of the axle. That is my next major modification. http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60crossover.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e36m3 Posted December 18, 2013 Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 we just finished strength of materials at school and we spent a lot of time calculating this stuff. the truth is there is not much advantage to using a full pipe. the hollow pipe is a lot lighter so you can run a bigger tube instead. all the force ends up acting on the outside of the pipes, the center of a full pipe sees no change in tension or compression, so really it sees virtually no force. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97 cherokee Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 I had the old stock hollow tie rod and I bent that up a few times after I installed the zj one hasn't moved dragged and smashed or over so much stuff ann i ended up bending the other link first lol I also carry spair of each a driveshaft and both front axles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72LandRover88 Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 we just finished strength of materials at school and we spent a lot of time calculating this stuff. the truth is there is not much advantage to using a full pipe. the hollow pipe is a lot lighter so you can run a bigger tube instead. all the force ends up acting on the outside of the pipes, the center of a full pipe sees no change in tension or compression, so really it sees virtually no force. unless you try to park on a rock right in the middle of the track bar! Running a larger tube really isn't an option in this application... on full lock the track bar is almost touching the springs as it is... I am not all learned up on this stuff but I'd say when forces are applied to steering rods in the directions they are intended to be applied (tension and compression) there is little to no benefit to a solid steel over a hollow tube. However, when the side load is applied (such as trying to park on a rock!) I'd think the benefits of the solid one would show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 I would have thought that putting a crease on a tube would be relatively easy compared to a solid bar. Once the crease is there, the bending and compressive strength is gone. No? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 Running a larger tube really isn't an option in this application... on full lock the track bar is almost touching the springs as it is... I am not all learned up on this stuff but I'd say when forces are applied to steering rods in the directions they are intended to be applied (tension and compression) there is little to no benefit to a solid steel over a hollow tube. However, when the side load is applied (such as trying to park on a rock!) I'd think the benefits of the solid one would show. I figured you couldn't fit a larger diameter rod/tube in your application. I suspect you are right about there not being much difference in tension and compression between tube and solid. That would have to be extreme pressures anyway! But there seems to be not a lot of advantage to solid over tube from a 'bending moment' pov. I haven't looked for the article(s) but I will post if I find them. Sure, if you can't fit larger tube go with solid. If you can fit larger tube, it is better. This even affects driveshafts iirc. If you want a stronger driveshaft to resist rotational torque, you easily go with larger tube, not solid. And to resist flailing around! And I forget about the larger tube with thinner walls, but I think it is still better than smaller tube with thicker walls. Someone will find those articles! Wait: I found a good one! And I was forgeting about weight. The big fact is solid doesn't add much strength given it's extra weight, but a slightly larger tuber is stronger than a slightly smaller solid rod. Whew! http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1101or-steel-tubing-myth-of-the-tube/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e36m3 Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 i didnt say go an extra 2 inches but lets say you add 1/8 of an inch over stock, with steel that has a higher carbon content in it, is still better than the same grade of material they'de be using OEM and a hell of a lot lighter. its all about compromises. then again, high carbon steel is more prone to just fracture instead of bending... but then your weakest point becomes something else. like the article mentions, comparing a rod with 1" diameter with a 1.25" tube with a .125" thickness, not only the tube is a lot stronger but is also a lot lighter. thats what i was talking about. i still have a bunch of charts at home from that course with tensile strengths, elasticity and all that good stuff for a bunch of materials and its fairly simple to play with those formulas to demonstrate it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 Well I was wondering why the Jeep was still vibrating after the ice has come off the wheels, looked, and found that I lost all my wheel weights. My transmission crossmember is also now bowed up some, and where the rear drivers side control arm mounts to the Jeep got crushed in a little. With loosing all the tire weights, it has me thinking about getting beads instead of getting them rebalanced. If I keep loosing weights, getting them balanced will add up pretty quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 Winter wheeling is tough, and damage hidden until much later it seems! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 Not a super-original idea, but it's better than having the shovel rolling around in the back :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e36m3 Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Whyte Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 Lol I found a parking spot and flexed outwith my huge 215 winters ha ha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 Not a super-original idea, but it's better than having the shovel rolling around in the back :) Nice! Now where did you put the First Aid kit that you displaced? Nothing is ever simple is it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 It didn't have the OEM 1st aid kit when I acquired the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 Nice! Now where did you put the First Aid kit that you displaced? Nothing is ever simple is it! I've seen that mod a lot on the X forums. On my list of things to do. It will still work with the first aid kit installed; it tucks nicely underneath or you can spin the shovel to go "over" it. If I were you Jay, I'd spin it the other way as in the pic above. Not sure how tall you are in relation to the hatch, but I can most certainly say some other person walking under your hatch and is not aware of the "business end" pointing down are in for a work of hurt and possibly a bandage or worse stitches!. If you keep it oriented that way, you better get a first aid kit to put in there soon :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 I did steal the idea off CX....good tip for the pointy end too, thanks :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 I did steal the idea off CX....good tip for the pointy end too, thanks :) No problem with the tip about the "tip". (<-- sad, sad phrasing, I know ;)) If you find the end of the shovel hits the plastic, I've seen other use a piece of sound deadening material (Dynamat, etc) or ice & water shield used when doing a roof. I have 3/4 of a roll of ice & water shield at the house so if you need a piece, let me know. I can add it to the drive flanges that I'll get into your hands before too much longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 I took my broken taillight off and glued it back together. Thanks Jay for picking up the broken piece! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 Good as new ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 It's good enough for me! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97 cherokee Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 Pretty sweet idea jay! Where did you find the clips to hold the shovel on? I have a little panel like that in the hatch I could do the same thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted December 21, 2013 Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 http://m.canadiantire.ca/en/search-results.touch.html?q=hold-it&count=16 I can't take credit for the idea, but the clips are 'hold-its' They're holding up OK so far, but ive yet to really slam the tailgate shut....so we'll see :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.