Jump to content


Registered User
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by derekmac

  1. Well, Canada Post didn't process it until 3:15 today, so it didn't make it. This one isn't 100% duty cycle, but it does come with a better compressor than the last Viair OBA system I had (which I sold because I couldn't fit it in the TJ, and this one is even bigger, lol), and that one would easily air up 3-4 rigs without shutting down. This one should do the trick for me, plus I'll be leaving the CT one installed since it's tucked away under the hood in an ammo can. This is it, and I managed to get it from the Warehouse Deals section for $228 Viair Medium Duty Onboard Air System
  2. Since my Canadian Tire compressor has been slowly dying, and will only air up two or three tires before shutting down, I decided it was time to replace it. Searching on Amazon, I found a great deal on a Viair OBA system, so I pulled the trigger and it should be here tomorrow.
  3. I had plans to get lots done while off, but it hasn't really happened, lol. I did get the PS cooler installed today, but I need to pick up some fluid for it. I also plated in the rear lower control arm mounts as that's where the lower shock mount will be located with the outboard.
  4. So, my plans are to still outboard the rear shocks, and I have a couple of new projects to add to the todo list. I ordered a transmission cooler that I'll be using as a power steering cooler. The pumps are known to overheat when running bigger tires through twisty trails, so I figured this was cheap insurance to help prolong the life of the pump. I ordered a Viair OBA kit that comes with a 2.5 gallon tank. My Canadian Tire compressor will only inflate 3 tires now before shutting down, so I needed something new. I'll keep the CT one installed since it's out of the way in an ammo can under the hood. I did a caliper swap on the rear in preparation for the shock outboard. I had to switch swap backing plates to mount the calipers in a forward position so the shocks would have clearance and not contact the calipers in the factory location.
  5. Got it Matt. I think I'll only need two of them now, probably going to go a different route when I do the front. I'll try sending you a pm.
  6. Wow, guess I should update this, lol. I did get the new coils and track bar installed. Next on my list is to out board the rear shocks so I can install some much longer (12.5" travel compared to the 8" on it now) ones. I'll be using some Ford shock towers, which I need to get from @Powerram . They need to be frenched into the frame, which requires cutting a half decent chunk out and welding the new shock towers in.
  7. Just wondering which location coffee's at this week?
  8. I pulled the trigger on a new set of 3.5" Rock Krawler triple rate springs for the front. This will get rid of the ZJ coils and 2" coil spacer, and give me the little extra lift that I'm after. They're scheduled to be delivered Friday, and I'm hoping they'll make it for the long weekend so I can get them and the JKS track bar installed.
  9. I've been slacking, but will start posting our run info here and on Facebook. It would be great to see you out again Eugene!
  10. Damn, I'm really slacking on updates here! So, the Jeep is now sitting on 35's (won 5 General Grabber X3's at the Valley Invasion), has new rear springs installed (4" Rough Country), a 1.25" body lift and a 1" motor mount lift, installed LED headlights and ordered a JKS adjustable front track bar.
  11. There, I finally got the skid on. It'll be nice having a little extra protection under the Jeep.
  12. Yeah, the manifold is on the drivers side, drops down and goes around the front of the oil pan, then down the passenger side. Isn't it the more bends, the better the performance? LOL
  13. Started working on my oil pan/transmission skid today. I picked up a used Warn skid, but since I don't have the factory transfer case skid, I have to modify it some. I snagged the big white piece of 1/8" steel from the metal bin at work, and I'm using that to lengthen it, and it'll also beef it up nicely. The Warn skid is only an 1/8" thick, and this one had some bends in it when I got it. Here it is quickly mocked up. It'll sit forward about another inch as it mounts using the control arm bolts, and it's sitting behind them in these pics. Getting the new piece ready. Cut down to size, and getting the areas that need to be welded cleaned up. I enlarged the small holes that were down the middle so I'd have some good spots to weld.
  14. Nice Eugene, it should work better now!
  15. Yesterday I replaced both front hubs. It took 15 min from tire off to tire back on for the driver side. The passenger side, different story. The head of one of the 13mm 12 point bolts that hold the hub on was stripped. Where it's at, you can't get anything on it either. I had to cut the hub where the bolt threads into to release the tension to get it out. Luckily I hoarded all the old bolts I removed from the old pars WJ, and I had one that was the right length and had a normal 19mm head. The pass side hub was in REALLY bad shape, and had a ton of play in it. The grease was also starting to come out of it, so it probably wouldn't have lasted too much longer. The driver side wasn't too bad, just a bit of play in it, but I figured that I might as well change it too.
  16. For the longest time, I've had an exhaust leak at the flanges where the pipe attaches to the manifold. I've tried a couple of times to tighten the bolts, but they wouldn't go. A couple nights ago I thought I'd give them another try. Nope, wouldn't tighten. I figured they must have been rusty, and that why. So, I said might as well see if I can get one off, figuring it would break. Nope again, lol. The nut spun right off with no issues. Turns out the bolts were not fully threaded, and the nut was bottoming out. I added a few more washers and they tightened right up. Before I could shake the exhaust easily, and at times it would even hit the front driveshaft. It doesn't budge now.
  17. I'm pretty happy with it. I had put the same muffler on the V8 Grand, and it sounded awesome on it, so I thought I'd take a chance and get the same one for this Jeep. It's an 18" long one, so it doesn't have any annoying drone, and it doesn't sound like a fart can Civic, LOL. I know the sound will change once I get some miles on it though... Here's the one on it: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0002M9PC0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  18. I picked up some 3/16 2" square tube to mount the new skid plate. It's sitting at the exact same height as the stock one. I also installed some new signal/running lights, and a new muffler. The reason for the two lights is that the circuit uses an alternating ground, and since these are LED, they'll only light with the power flowing one way. The muffler is a Flowtech Red Hots glass pack that I've had since Sept 2016, but just got around to installing. Since it's a center in/out, and the stock was center in/offset out, the tail pipe still needs some work.
  19. When I had it jacked up in place, I measured both sides and found that I need to drop it 2.5". I could get away with 2" or 2.25", but that'll have it higher than it is now, and I'm already surprised that I don't have driveline vibs. I'm sitting 3" higher, and I know a lot of TJ's get driveline vibs above 2".
  20. My new skid plate also arrived, but I wasn't able to install it. I knew I'd have to drop it some, but the 1" spacers weren't enough. Some 2.5" square tubing will work perfectly though. This skid plate is MUCH beefier than the stock one, the the front and rear lips angle up instead of down like the dumb stock skid.
  21. I also relocated the locker pumps to under the hood. I don't know why Jeep thought putting them under the Jeep was a good idea. Wiring and new air line in place. Under the hood where no more ice chunks will break a nipple off (see silicon blob).
  22. So I haven't done too much, but I have been slack on the minor updates. I wired up and in cab winch switch. I left the power wire unhooked while I was running everything. The red switch is the power switch, and the other one is a two way momentary rocker switch.
  23. Thanks Justin! I honestly can't see why 8.8's wouldn't be strong enough. There are 6 bolts holding up not a lot of weight, and there's not much for forces being applied to them. That's (10.9's) what's in them from the factory though. I'll call around tomorrow (or the next day) and see what I can find.
  • Create New...