autumnwalker

In the transmission - I assume this is to resolve the hard shifting / driveline "unloading" issue. I did some searching after they gave me the plan - turns out there are others with the same issue and symptoms (and valve body doesn't fix it).

Truck update - Ford is replacing the valve body (if they can order the part) ... 6000 km on truck.

You may be on to something. Shop foreman suggested I run higher grade. I tried 89 through one tank at the suggestion of the dealer with no notable difference, but haven't tried the 91. Like you said - I shouldn't have to based on Ford literature / sales, but shop is saying our gas is "junk" and we need to run high grade in these trucks here. Out of principle I've not run 91. I asked two different people at dealership before purchasing if the truck required premium fuel and was told no. The owners manual also says 87 is fine. I wouldn't have bought it if it needed 91 (or would have went with a 5L instead). Even the RAM needed 89 or better - one of the reasons I traded it.

There's nothing to replace it with.

TBH it's about the one thing it seems good at. Towed both loads with absolutely no problems. It's the 3.5L Ecoboost which has 400 hp and 500 lb/ft. Mine doesn't have max tow so it'll do 11,300 lbs ... which is a bit much for a 1/2 ton IMO. Outside of towing it's a basket case, Ford Canada is involved, and I'm considering CAMVAP: Tailgate was replaced - damaged on delivery due to misaligned hinges. It actually shaved the corner off of the tailgate from rubbing the hinge. it has damaged itself again after being fixed ... they cannot determine how it damaged itself, but same symptom (but only paint damage this time). Rear driver's door was removed / realigned because it was sideways (up in back) and contacted the cab corner trim. Cab corner trim had to be removed / reapplied because it was too far forward and contacting the door. GPS randomly stops working and thinks I'm driving through lakes or several streets away from where I am. Shifts hard enough that it feels like you're being kicked in the back or the driveshaft fell out (like it unloads / free wheels). Engine bucks and shudders under light load and idles rough intermittently - feels like you're not downshifting in a manual trans and too much load on engine and / or misfire. Absolutely no codes or CEL being thrown. Shop Foreman has acknowledged the engine issue, says it is common and hopes Ford releases new tuning / maps for them because it's "not normal". TBH - this is why I didn't post a thread about the truck because I wasn't / am not sure if I'm going to keep it. I reeeeeally want to like it. I love the look, colour, power, features, etc ... but I don't trust it to be reliable.

the SASTerra? Looks like a few parts are missing now!!

Second payload under new management. Brought home a load of lumber last night for the deck. I'll have to snap a pic later - didn't grab one yesterday.

For @sar4x4 - apparently VW is bringing back the Scout nameplate as an EV! Volkswagen is resurrecting the Scout as an EV. But what was the Scout? (autoblog.com)

Oh ... right. I also got rid of the Ram and got a Ford.

I guess I can start a build thread for this? I picked up a car hauler - scratching an itch I've had as long as I've driven a vehicle capable of towing such a rig as I'm sure some of the cronies can attest to. Appears to be "well used" but solid - plenty of life left. Previous owner went through it and gave it a coat of paint on the areas you could reach without laying on your back (i.e. crossmembers are still needing paint). He also freshened the brakes, bearings, put new LED lights all around, and got it saftey'd one week before I purchased it. It's hard to tell in the photos, but there were a couple of items that needed to be addressed right away 1) the trailer brake battery was a lawn tractor battery crudely wired and strapped to the deck (see blue strap at front of deck between the ramps in above pic) and 2) there was no plate mount or plate light (how did that pass safety?). So I picked up a new trailer brake controller, attached it to the front of the frame, and wired it all in. I also put together a plate bracket and light and put it on the rub rail on the back - it is "supposed" to go on the lower driver's side fender, but I knew that would have just got rekt on the first drive. A bit hard to see, but the battery box is just inside the second upright on the front. I also yanked off the old straps that are attached to the front of the frame. I think I'll cut the winders off the front someday and perhaps reuse them on the sides ... or I might just take them off and save a couple of pounds lol. Here it is with its first payload under new management. I picked up four concrete pillars for our new deck. They are about 900 lbs each and about 5.5 feet high. Pulled it great. The deck is fine ... but it's showing age and has a couple of holes. I think I might pull it later this year. That will also give me easy access to rehab the crossmembers and inspect / clean up any wiring hidden below it.

Got one! Should be sufficient for what I need.

Any tips on what to look for when checking out a trailer? I'd look at "obvious" stuff like the deck being rotted, wiring, paint, check lights, tires ... but what about the "important" stuff? Best way to check hubs, brakes, axles? Anything else?

Do we really? Irving claims that it does not import any Russian oil.

Good info, thanks @Powerram! Would be pulling behind a 1/2 ton. Based on the Jeep alone it seems like a low deck would be the better option. In future, if it's not the Jeep / 4x4 it would be some sort of sports car type thing which makes a low deck make even more sense. TBH I've just always wanted a trailer and these are loose justifications for buying one

Good point. 4x4 ok, but anything lower would be useless.

That thing looks awesome! To @SQRLPWR's point ... bad time of life to be doing a globetrot in a rig like that with diesel prices the way they are!

Thoughts on a flat deck / deckover vs. between the wheels / lowboy? Would deckover put the weight too high with a lifted off roader?

How long makes sense? You can get a new 16 foot 10k for $5,995. A two door JK is like 14 feet ... little yard tractors are like 6 - 10 feet (depending on accessories). Most dimensional lumber tops out at 16 feet. UPDATE: AH! Sneaky - the GVWR on the trailer is 10k, and it weighs about 2,500 lbs ... so really only a 7,500 lb payload.

I can see that from my window ...

I've wanted a trailer forever .. thinking about scratching the itch. Anyone have anything / know of anything available? Thinking about 18 feet and at least 7k lbs (preferably 10k+). Also happy to have an ELI5 on trailers (dimensions, capacities, etc.). Primary use case is long / heavy building materials (think precast concrete, 12+ ft lumber, siding) and / or dragging the Jeep (or other carcasses) around.

Are you able to post the vids here?

Very cool! Thanks for the detailed update / pics.

Going to have to do the floor in the Jeep soon - will look at brush Tremclad!

Looks real good! Do you find the brush on Tremclad works better than spray? Right over the rust?

I'm rehabing my mower deck - don't think I'll use POR 15 there. Some good ole Tremclad methinks.